N2O Q's

[RatDime]

Hey guys Im thinking of installing a n2o kit this winter on my truck, just jump starting now to get the facts. Questiions I have are if I run a kit which will be 175/200 max, but 100-150 for sure- I want it to live! Will a holley black pump work out for the fuel only? Will I need a seperate fuel pump? Right now I run hyper pistons but forged crank/pistons and rods will be going in, as well as a solid roller camshaft. I want to keep the compression about 10.5/11.0, I would like to know what kind of rings you guys run as well as gaps(rings) this will still be a weekend cruiser, but its set up for 1/8 mile, I would like to get in the 6's with it. right now it runs mid 7's.

[85cam]

will a holley black pump work out for the fuel only? Will I need a seperate fuel pump? Right now I run hyper pistons but forged crank/pistons and rods will be going in, as well as a solid roller camshaft. I want to keep the compression about 10.5/11.0, I would like to know what kind of rings you guys run as well as gaps(rings) this will still be a weekend cruiser, but its set up for 1/8 mile, I would like to get in the 6's with it. right now it runs mid 7's.

A holley black is enough for carb and nitrous at 150 shot, but each has to have a seperate regulator and has to be flowed accordingly, a 150 shot with those hyper pistons you will not want to go much over that unless you know you have your tune up dead nuts, including your fuel and timing and spark power.

As for rings, anything you put on there is going to be stronger for the nitrous than the hyper pistons, regular old ductile iron rings will foot the bill.
Do not get me wrong, hypers are good and can take a hit but not as well as forged. Or rather be as forgiving as a set of forged if you get your tune off.

As for ring gaps, ductile iron will be fine for you on the small shot you are planning, but for an example nitrous engine, the top ring end gap sould be opened up to as much as .006 or .007 inches times the bore diameter. Now we're looking at a 2nd ring end gap of .024 to .028 inches in an engine with 4 inch bores.

For the 2nd ring end gap is even wider: .0063 to .0073 inches times the bore ( or 0.025 to 0.029 inches with a 4 inch bore).

The recommended ring end gap for oil rings regardless of the engine application is typically .015 inches.

I believe that opening up the 2nd end gap even more (say an additional 10%) can improve overall ring sealing by allowing trapped gases to escape before they blow past the top ring and cause ring flutter at high rpm (say above 5000 to 6000 rpm).

But on the rings, best bet is to follow your manufacturers sugegstions, call em up and they will tell you where to go!

[RatDime]

thanks for the reply, this trwill be street driven 80% and 20 racing 1/8mile. I will start off small like, 75 shot for awhile and learn ho to read the plugs better, but want to start small and safe until I can really let it eat, forged coponets are deff going into truck before the hit.

[434 smallblock]

a black should support it as far as the ring gaps you dont wanns get to loose on a street engine without vacuum pump it will smoke like a chimney. your combo will easily hold 150 right now. put a 63 squared in a bigshot plate and set your fuel to 5lbs flowing.what kind of heads I will get you the correct plug # to run,and pull about 6 to 7 degrees of timing

[RatDime]

I run 7.5 psi now, thats what holley recc on dominators

[85cam]

I run 7.5 psi now, thats what holley recc on dominators

That is why you need 2 regulators, to tune everything in with

[RatDime]

any pics or diagrams some can share?

[434 smallblock]

any pics or diagrams some can share?

you have to tee off the main fuel line and add a 2nd regulator in the main fuel line from pump one feeds your motor the other your nitrous. you will need a flow gauge that you can put a jet in and have your pump running and set your nitrous regulator to 5lbs flowing to start

[RatDime]

gotcha