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85cam
07-03-2009, 07:48 AM
While I am doing the BBC swap, I have read that manual brakes give you more room, since the booster is gone.

My question is simple, can I remove the booster, and bolt the MC right back on, or is it a little more to it? I know the piston size is different for manual vs power but at the parts stores it has the same casting number on both parts! I realize brake feel will be a little rough but with adrenaline pumping and no street use this may be OK?

So can I use the same master cylinder for now and upgrade it later to aftermarket?

dand355
07-03-2009, 08:13 AM
ok here's what i did and others also. took out the booster and bolted up the same master that came off the booster , brakes are harder but like you said your pumped up haha. bolt it anyway you want make plate , relocate. lowbuck works

85cam
07-03-2009, 08:32 AM
Make plate? On the 85 they came with manual brakes
Is the holes not there? Have not taken it off yet but will be in a few hours!

Pics will be forth coming, believe that! LOL

Diabolical
07-03-2009, 09:17 AM
Manual uses a different bracket.. you will see.. (It a freaking pain in the ass to get off)

dand355
07-03-2009, 10:18 AM
you have manual brakes your good leave it alone. i've put bb in blazers without moving the master, but also cut the fire wall and pushed the motor back

az03sonoma
07-03-2009, 11:09 AM
You can see the bracket sitting loosely in the mounting location. I got my setup from a bone yard for $25 including master cylinder and push rod. :10:

And yes, it's a pain to get off, but worth it.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/az03sonoma/Project%20S10/IMG_4682.jpg


Tony

Randy 406
07-03-2009, 02:06 PM
The best part about using the factory plate is, you'll have the saftey "cup" on there to prevent the rod from ever falling out.

onehookinsuv
07-03-2009, 07:44 PM
Pic of my son's master cylinder

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/my67chevyii/mastercylinder016.jpg

1slowdime
01-05-2010, 04:36 PM
what cylinder is that the plate is different on a second gen i took my booster off and cant even lock the brakes what should i use i need part numbers people lol

onehookinsuv
01-05-2010, 06:25 PM
It's a wilwood master cylinder with a first gen manual brake plate with cup.

jameskirk1
01-05-2010, 09:11 PM
I understand that the manual brake truck uses a different (upper) hole for the push rod in the pedal to allow more leverage. Haven't done this swap yet but will soon check into it.

1slowdime
01-11-2010, 09:49 AM
the mounts on a second gen are totally different still confused on what i actually need

96407s10
01-11-2010, 10:56 AM
On my second gen I cut the stud on the pedal and moved it up about 1 1/4 inches and rewelded it back on and just bolted my master to the firewall. I had to build a new push rod and made a washer sleeve so it could never fall out, and welded a stop so the pedal could never retract enough to pull the rod out of the sleeve. My brakes work great I can make the first turn off running out the back door @ 126 mph.

1slowdime
01-11-2010, 10:58 AM
that was with the power master cylinder?

1slowdime
01-11-2010, 11:02 AM
I have a sleave and stop already made and instaled

96407s10
01-11-2010, 11:36 AM
Yes it was the power master cylinder.

1fast10
01-11-2010, 11:58 AM
i used a willwood polished master cyl with 7/8 travel. had to buy a bvrake rod kit from summit but it works great. pedal is softer than stock but it stops really well with aerospace brakes in rear heres a pics. bolted into factory spot
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc312/sterry57/284.jpg

1slowdime
01-11-2010, 12:51 PM
Ok i think i will try that then