8.8 cut down for a S10

[Diabolical]

Mike (Outlaw84) bought a 8.8 out of an Explorer and wanted it cut down for the S10
he is working on..

I've never done one so I packed up my TIG and jumped at the opportunity.

The 8.8 is your standard Explorer rear.
Its 59" flange to flange.
One axle is 3" longer (drivers side) than the other.
So, Mike bought a second passenger side axle as well.

The plan is to use the stock passengers side length axles on both sides.
To do so we need to loose 3" on the drivers side so..
Here we go..

(Note.. A stock Dime rear is 54-1/2"
This mod will yield a 56-1/2" rear.. 1" longer on each side.
Even though you could probably get away with a 15x8" rim with 4-1/2" of back spacing..
To get the most tire possible under your truck.
You will need to run a 15x8" rim with 5" of back spacing or a 15x10 with 5-1/2" back spacing)

Pic #1
Your run of the mill.. 8.8
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4847

Pic #2
Mikes son Andrew started to cut off the spring pad on the drivers side.
Because the factory welded the pads.. I knew there would be some gouging
in the axle tube in order to get them off.. (They burn them in hot!)
So, I figured that would be the ideal place to remove the 3" of tubing.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4846

Pic #3 and #4
Look how deep Andrew had to go to get the pad off clean.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4845

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4844

Pic #5
Here is the area cleaned.. Still a deep gouge.. Its ok :)
That's the area we are going to cut the 3" from.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4843

[Diabolical]

Pic #6 and #7
I decided to go 2-7/8" to leave me room to clean and square everything up..
Its easy to grind off a little.. If you cut too much you are in trouble.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4842

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4841

Pic #8
So.. Here I go with the Port-a-Ban.. Yes.. Port-a-Ban! No need for anything fancy!!
I wanted to show you guys you don't need any "specialty tools" to do this.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4840

Pic #9 and 10
Mike and Andrew guided me on the front side while I watched the back.
Nice and clean!
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4839

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4838

Pic #11 and #12
Now on to the other side.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4837

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4836

[Diabolical]

Pic #13 and #14
Not bad.. Not bad at all.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4835

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4834

Pic #15 and #16
Ok, This measurement is important!
You need to make sure the both axles are in the housing and the 'C-Clip' is installed
along with the pin.

The factory measurement from the back of the axle flange to the bracket that holds on the
dust shield and brakes is 2-1/8".
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4833

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4832

Pic #17
That's what we made ours. It was perfect!
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4831

Pic #18
We squared everything up with some flat stock
(Not shown..My son was txting instead of taking pics!)
Then tacked a weld then gave it a spin.. Like butter dripping off a hot biscuit!

Note #1 The alignment marks.. We made sure the brake flange was the same as the other side.
Note #2 Make sure you chamfer the pieces to be welded..
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4830

[Diabolical]

Pic #19 and #20
Burning it in!
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4829

http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4828

Pic #21
Its done.. Welding a round tube sucks.. Stop and go.. Stop and go.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4827

Pic #22
The spring pads need to be moved out to 38-1/4" center to center.
(That's the stock center to center for a S10)
6" center, off the back side of the brake bracket worked out great for a reference..
Set it at 3 deg negative and locked it in.. Man, This is easy :)
(Did the same to the drivers side.. Just cut of the bracket and measured 6" center
from the back of the brake bracket)
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4826

Pic #23
Burned it in.
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4825

Pic #24
Set it in and checked it... Nice!
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4824

Pic #25
Other than cutting off all the other brackets and some cleaning..
This baby's done!
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4823

[Diabolical]

Pics #26
Who are these bums?
http://www.s10racer.com/board/picture.php?albumid=370&pictureid=4822

I would like to thank Mike (Outlaw84) for trusting me.. What the hell.. It ain't my rear! :)
Andrew for doing all the hard work. (bulling around the rear and grinding) really cool young man!
My Son Michael for taking the pics and hanging with the 'old man' on the weekend.
And Dan (dand355) for his moral support (Bitching, moaning and cussing!)

Mike

[outlaw84]

I would extend a Special Thanks To Mike for coming to work on this project it was a huge sucess in that the diff set in perfect , its centered just about dead on slight offset , all the brackets on the diff should be removed to make it look sweet and clean , pics are to follow this post of rear end completed when sandblasted and painted .

[Rickracer]

NICE Mike!! I use a Porter Cable Porta-Band, one of the handiest tools I own, I haven't really used my chop saw at all since I got it, :cool4:

[85ss]

Awesome...

[sgblazer2]

mike just likes having his hands on someone else's rear!....lol j/k

looks great guys

[Mark @ Hammerhead Racing]

MIKE IS DA MAN!!!!

Great job guys on the build and awsome job Mike on the sticky!!!

I'ma be a rear end buildin' mofo now!!

[sbctols1]

Awesome work guys. I may find another 8.8 and narrow it now.

[421s10]

yall sure did make it look easy

[ZX9rgreen]

Nice write up........Thanks

[BUTCHERBOY]

Thanks Mike for the Write up dude!

I will be doing this very soon!

Justin

[Rickracer]

yall sure did make it look easy

Really, the hardest part is cutting and grinding the housing clean, :cool4:

[djlowfreq]

You took time to do the job right, and shared the pics and measurements. What a family!!! Thanks for the write up.

[outlaw84]

The Finish product to follow parts of diff out for mods but will post finish diff

[sevenseven]

The only thing that could help this thread is all the measurements for the stock rear to fit with a different axle. Like a 9 inch a 8.5 a dana 60...so we can do it ourselves much like you guys did!! Great job....just need more info on the other rears.

[littlewickeds10]

(Note.. A stock Dime rear is 54-1/2"
This mod will yield a 56-1/2" rear.. 1" longer on each side.
Even though you could probably get away with a 15x8" rim with 4-1/2" of back spacing..
To get the most tire possible under your truck.
You will need to run a 15x8" rim with 5" of back spacing or a 15x10 with 5-1/2" back spacing)

With the 8.8 cut down using this advice, will the tires stcik out still if using a 15x10 with 5-1/2" backspacing? or will the tires fit under the fender?

[littlewickeds10]

Mike,
When you welded the spring perches on you did them at 3 degree's negative. How did you go about doing that? did you set the rearend up on jack stands? how did you know how to position the rearend level so you could achieve 3 degree's negative? is 3 degree's negative a good rule of thumb to weld perches on if the rearend is not under the truck?

[Disturbing V6]

(Note.. A stock Dime rear is 54-1/2"
This mod will yield a 56-1/2" rear.. 1" longer on each side.
Even though you could probably get away with a 15x8" rim with 4-1/2" of back spacing..
To get the most tire possible under your truck.
You will need to run a 15x8" rim with 5" of back spacing or a 15x10 with 5-1/2" back spacing)

With the 8.8 cut down using this advice, will the tires stcik out still if using a 15x10 with 5-1/2" backspacing? or will the tires fit under the fender?

I run a 15x8 with 5.5 inches and with the axle being a inch wider the 295s just squeeze under the lip. I'd image a 15x10 with a 275 would be the same way. Just squeezing.

[Diabolical]

Mike,
When you welded the spring perches on you did them at 3 degree's negative. How did you go about doing that? did you set the rearend up on jack stands? how did you know how to position the rearend level so you could achieve 3 degree's negative? is 3 degree's negative a good rule of thumb to weld perches on if the rearend is not under the truck?

I set them on 2 level a-frames and then put a degree wheel on the pinion.
Set it at 3deg negative and tacked them.. Then spun the rear end around
and finished the welds.

[FastMilk]

Just got done with the rear swap. The only thing that was mistaken was the rear wheel back spacing. With a 15/8 a 5.5 will work buy, a 15/10 has to be a 6.5 not a 5.5. When I put my rear wheels on it looked like a rodeo show. I have a 92 so for all you guys with a first and second gen take this into concideration. Looks great now I will post pIcs soon.....

[Tweeder]

awesome thread, do you have to tig it, or can you mig it?

I dont have a tig :(

[Disturbing V6]

I migged mine. Didn't have the tig yet when I built it.

[Tweeder]

nice. I think this is deffinatly a viable option as aftermarket pre splined axles are readily available for going into the low 10s as well as c clip eliminators and full case spools for the 8.8

could save a ton of money going this route.

[eadsauto1]

i am new to shortening rears so i was wondering how you square the tube end that you cut befor welding back together thanks

[Rickracer]

nice. I think this is deffinatly a viable option as aftermarket pre splined axles are readily available for going into the low 10s as well as c clip eliminators and full case spools for the 8.8

could save a ton of money going this route.

There are no c-clip eliminators for the Exploder 8.8, the ones you see are for Mustangs, (28 spline, smaller diameter housing ends & tubes). If you're doing a drag race rear, just use 9" big bearing housing ends and 9" 31 spline axles, 31 spline is 31 spline, :thumbsup:

[BUTCHERBOY]

There are no c-clip eliminators for the Exploder 8.8, the ones you see are for Mustangs, (28 spline, smaller diameter housing ends & tubes). If you're doing a drag race rear, just use 9" big bearing housing ends and 9" 31 spline axles, 31 spline is 31 spline, :thumbsup:

Yep, The man is right.
Jegs had to give me my money back on them Moser c-eliminators.

And when I get some rest after being married, the 8.8 is getting docked.

Justin

[jakedog]

Just got done with the rear swap. The only thing that was mistaken was the rear wheel back spacing. With a 15/8 a 5.5 will work buy, a 15/10 has to be a 6.5 not a 5.5. When I put my rear wheels on it looked like a rodeo show. I have a 92 so for all you guys with a first and second gen take this into concideration. Looks great now I will post pIcs soon.....

Any recent pics of your tire and rims ?

[01XtremeLT1]

There are no c-clip eliminators for the Exploder 8.8, the ones you see are for Mustangs, (28 spline, smaller diameter housing ends & tubes). If you're doing a drag race rear, just use 9" big bearing housing ends and 9" 31 spline axles, 31 spline is 31 spline, :thumbsup:

Will this work if your using the rear disc brakes of the explorer?

[jakedog]

I just stripped my 8.8 down last night, I'm not sure if the disc brake brackets I unbolted would work with different tube ends????? Not sure if the bolt pattern would be the same.

A side note, the discs in my opinion might hold the rear axle in to an extent, What i mean is its not like a drum when you lose the tire and drum and axle all together, the caliper i would think might hold it in there. You might lose the caliper and pads due to breakage ?????? Any thoughts ? I know its not the exact same thing as c-clip eliminators.

[Diabolical]

Once I get my lathe hooked up in the new shop.. I might look into making a c-clip eliminator so you can use the 9" axles.. along with c-clip eliminators for the Explorer rear.
Looks to be a need for this.

Mike

[Rickracer]

In prepping the 8.8 for my S10, and building the 9" for the Vega, I have compared the Exploder 8.8 brake brackets to the stock big bearing 9" housing ends, and the bolt pattern matches. That's as far as I've gotten so far, but ATM, my plan is to use the 8.8 brakes on the Vega's 9", we'll see how that works out. :cool4:

[Diabolical]

I'm sure you'll post the results!

[mytmouz]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Racing-Rear-Disc-Kit-w-E-Brake,40534.html

[Rickracer]

Nice kit, but at this point, I've barely got more than that in my whole 9" rear, (Yukon bolt through aluminum center section, Richmond lightweight steel spool, 4.86 gears, bearings, billet aluminum pinion support, & Moser axles, about $600), besides, I wouldn't wanna switch to 17" wheels. :cool4:

[mytmouz]

I just posted that because it shows the 8.8 and new style big 9 take the same brake kit...

[RedRider85]

You would need a PCN-290 u joint from summit racing to use the s10 driveshaft yoke and the Ford companion flange. Just in case anyone like me was just wondering.

[JDR88]

Anybody got pic's of 15x10 with the 6.5 backspacing on their truck's?